Gear

Garmin Forerunner 50

I got a Garmin Forerunner 50 for Father's Day. It's pretty slick. It's a watch that monitors heart rate and running speed. It can display heart rate, pace, speed, cadence, time, split time, or a two-level countdown timer. After the workout it gives time, calories (based on the weight I enter), average speed, average cadence, total steps taken, etc.

The Kit

  • watch
  • heart rate strap
  • foot pod
  • I will be getting the speed/cadence option for my bike
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    Positive

  • all the components link up quickly and easily
  • heart rate is as accurate as the Polar HRM I used before this one
  • the watch stores every pretty much automatically
  • accelerometer-based foot pod is very accurate - 95-99% for me without calibration
  • web software makes cool charts for each workout
  • all parts use standard CR-2023 lithium cell

    Negative

  • data seems to be deleted from the watch without verifying that it made it to the web site, so I lost a couple of workouts
  • Garmin stuff is not very water resistant
  • no way (apparently) to edit the raw data before it gets uploaded, so spurious data can junk up the graphs (ex: a workout had one heart rate data point at 240, so the graph compressed the range)
  • foot pod snaps around laces with a strong double-snap but it's not meant to move to a new pair of shoes very often

    Link:
    http://www8.garmin.com/buzz/fr50/
    http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-010-00679-25-Forerunner-50-Monitor/dp/B000U...

  • Oklahoma Joe smoker moves on to new home

    I've wanted a "real" smoker for several years, so when I found a genuine Oklahoma Joe smoker for sale a couple of years ago I jumped on it. But I only used it once, we don't eat a lot of meat, I'm trying to simplify, and I needed the money to buy triathlon gear. So I took some pictures with the idea of putting it on craigslist. I was talking about this at work and within ten minutes word spread and someone bought it. I will miss having it but I'll probably get more meat from it now that it's with a friend.

    These have a great reputation because they are so well built. This one is made from 1/4-inch thick pipe, so it won't lose heat to the wind. That's vital out here on the open prairie. It's a 16-inch, meaning it's made from a 16-inch diameter pipe. The firebox is 16 inches long, and the main cooking area is 32 inches long, giving 512 square inches of cook area on the stock expanded steel racks. Everything seals pretty well, and it has a mason jar lid tacked onto the bottom, so you can screw on a jar to catch your grease and drippings. It also has a propane connection for starting, if you're into that sort of thing.

    This smoker is heavy. Four feet of 16" x 1/4" pipe weights 168 pounds! Add the ends, legs, and shelves and it's over 200 pounds.

    More pictures here: http://sharpcraft.com/gallery/v/garden/smoker/

    You can still buy one of these new. After going through a few owners they are for sale here as the "classic 16" backyard smoker": http://www.horizonbbqsmokersstore.com/servlet/the-373/16%22-Classic-Back...

    Thinking about axes

    I've been looking at axes, including axes for sale on the internet, forging, and materials. Most forged axes are made from low carbon steel, with a bit of high carbon steel inserted and welded into the blade.

    I think they all have this wrong.

    Why would you want to have any part of an axe head soft? Most people will tell you that you don't want it brittle, but guess what - just like with knives before you can apply enough stress to fracture something brittle, something soft will have already bent.

    Let me say that another way. Take two pieces of steel - knives, axes, axles, doesn't matter what they are. Heat tread one to Rc 40 and the other to Rc 55. However you want to misuse them the harder one is going to take more abuse. The mode of failure will be different - maybe a bent blade is more useful than a broken one, but they're both failures.

    The exception on an axe is the poll - if you're going to hammer steel with the back side then you want it soft enough to not chip.

    The only "real" reason to do this is that the parts of the axe head away from the blade do not need to be stronger, so it's more efficient to use cheaper material. But it's much cooler to say you do it for ductility than for economy of materials.

    As for carrying this over into knives, I think ductility in a knife blade is hogwash, other than making blades for the American Bladesmith Society tests. For a working blade the whole thing should be hardened. Of course people who spend a few hundred bucks for a custom forged knife like to see a hamon so that's what really drives it.

    I should also restate my thoughts on knives vs. axes - knives are for cutting, axes are for chopping, sticks or crowbars are for prying. I think "chopper" knives in the survivalist sense are silly.

    I'm going to do some forging this spring, maybe I'll make an axe head and test out my theory. Or maybe I'll come around to the other way of thinking when I start pricing big chunks of high carbon steel.

    ETA: You can have an axe too hard - unless you're willing to give up sharpening it with a file.

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